Nestled at the northern tip of Scotland, Orkney is a mystical archipelago comprising 70 islands, each with its own story to tell. Known for its rich prehistoric heritage and stunning natural beauty, the islands are a must-visit for history enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. From ancient stone circles to mysterious underground chambers, Orkney offers a captivating journey into Scotland’s past.
A Landing in the Wind and Rain
The journey to Orkney begins with a bumpy flight from Aberdeen. As the Fairchild 340 touches down at Kirkwall Airport, the weather welcomes visitors with its characteristic winds and rain. It’s early October, and the damp conditions set the tone for a trip that will uncover secrets thousands of years old.
Unearthing Ancient Mysteries: Mine Howe
The next morning, armed with a helmet and torch, the adventure begins. Dave Lawrence, an archaeologist and guide, leads the way to Mine Howe, an underground chamber dating back to the Iron Age. The chamber, not typically open to tourists, offers an eerie experience. The narrow shaft and irregular stone steps lead into a chamber shrouded in darkness and silence. It’s a place where light and sound are almost entirely absorbed, creating an atmosphere of suspense and intrigue.
A Peek into the Past: Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn
Next, we venture to Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn, a burial site perched on a hilltop. Crawling through narrow passages to reach the main chamber, the sense of ancient craftsmanship is overwhelming. The dry stone walls, built without mortar, still stand as a testament to the ingenuity of early humans. While few human remains have been found here, the cairn continues to spark questions about its use and the people who created it.
Maes Howe: Aligning with the Solstice
One of Orkney’s most renowned prehistoric sites is Maes Howe, a 5,000-year-old mound that shelters an enormous central chamber. The site is famous for its precise alignment with the setting sun during the winter solstice. As the sun shines through the entrance, it illuminates a stone placed at the far end of the chamber, highlighting the astronomical knowledge of its creators. The absence of human remains at the site adds to the mystery surrounding its purpose.
Skara Brae: A Prehistoric Village
No visit to Orkney would be complete without exploring Skara Brae, an ancient stone village that dates back over 6,000 years. Discovered in 1850 when a storm stripped away the turf, the village remains remarkably well-preserved. The stone beds, cupboards, and even water tanks point to a sophisticated society. Yet, the question remains: Why was this settlement built in such a remote location, far from natural resources?
The Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness
In addition to its ancient villages and burial sites, Orkney is home to stunning stone circles, such as the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness. These monumental structures, constructed over 4,000 years ago, are aligned with the solstices and demonstrate the advanced knowledge of the island’s early inhabitants.
Rousay: A Journey to Mid Howe
The next day, under clear skies, we make our way to Rousay, a small island known for its striking archaeological sites. Our destination is Mid Howe, a large stalled cairn that serves as a communal tomb. The cairn, with its 24 compartments, provides a glimpse into the burial practices of Orkney’s ancient people. As we gaze at the site from above, the scale and complexity of the structure are breathtaking.
The Mysterious Past of Orkney
Orkney’s archaeological treasures offer a fascinating look at a civilization that predated even the Egyptian pyramids. The island’s stone circles, burial chambers, and ancient villages speak to a people with remarkable engineering skills and astronomical knowledge. While much about their lives remains unknown, Orkney continues to inspire awe and curiosity.
Farewell to Orkney
As my time in Orkney comes to an end, I reflect on the islands’ quiet beauty and the mystery that surrounds their ancient past. Although I am headed back to the mainland, part of me will always remain in the enigmatic landscapes of Orkney, a place where history is not just studied, but felt deeply in the silence of its ancient stones.