When Robert Marshall first tackled the West Highland Way in 1993, he raced through all 96 miles of it in just three days. He was fit, focused, and determined — but there was one thing he missed entirely: the point.
“I didn’t take in anything,” Robert recalls with a laugh. “It was just A to B. Get there. That’s it.”
Thirty-one years later, that mindset has completely changed. Now 69, the retired police officer from Gourock in Inverclyde has walked the West Highland Way 97 times — and he’s planning to complete his 100th journey by his 70th birthday in November.
“It’s a journey, not a destination.”
Robert’s love affair with Scotland’s most iconic long-distance walking route has evolved from an endurance test to something far deeper — a relationship with the land itself.
“Now I want to look at every blade of grass,” he says. “You want to know everything about everything.”
The West Highland Way stretches from Milngavie (just outside Glasgow) to Fort William, passing through Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, and ending beneath Ben Nevis, the UK’s tallest mountain. The 96-mile trail is a dramatic sweep through some of the country’s most awe-inspiring — and at times punishing — terrain.
Yet for Robert, it’s never gotten old.
“I’m always learning something new about the landscape,” he says. “Even after 90-odd walks, it keeps surprising me.”
A Routine That Never Gets Routine
While many walkers take six to seven days to complete the route, Robert tends to finish in five, mixing camping with nights in B&Bs and bunkhouses.
He always walks the same direction — south to north — and almost always alone, though he’s occasionally joined by one of his daughters or a friend for a day or two.
One unexpected ritual? Hunting for milk.
“I’m teetotal,” Robert explains, “and sometimes I’ll go right off the trail just to find a shop that sells milk. I’ll be desperate for it.”
It’s a quirky habit, but one that adds to the charm of his walking life. “Other people want a pint at the end of the day — I want a glass of milk.”
Not Just a Hike, but a Personal Timeline
Over three decades, Robert’s treks have become a sort of living memory bank. Each journey tells a story — of weather, seasons, friendships, grief, and growth.
“It’s like reading the same book again and again,” he says. “But each time, a different line jumps out at you.”
He’s crossed the trail under blazing sunshine, heavy snowfall, sideways rain, and once, in a near gale. “I’ve had days I thought, ‘Why am I doing this?’ But then you see a rainbow, or a stag, or a golden eagle — and you remember.”
A Quiet Legend on the Trail
While there’s no official record-keeping body for multiple completions of the West Highland Way, those familiar with the trail say Robert’s 97 walks — and counting — are unmatched.
Liz Smallwood, a volunteer with the West Highland Way Friends group, said his achievement is “just incredible.”
“Most people feel proud to do it once,” she said. “But 97? That’s a different level of dedication.”
Robert, characteristically modest, brushes off the praise.
“I’m not trying to break records,” he says. “I just love being out there.”
The Big 100
His 98th and 99th walks are already planned for the summer. And number 100? That one’s special.
“I want to finish the 100th one just before my 70th birthday in November,” he says. “It’s not just a goal — it feels like a celebration.”
And after 100?
“I’ll keep walking,” he smiles. “Why would I stop?”
