Scotland’s wool industry, once integral to its culture and economy, seems to be losing its charm. Despite the country’s rich sheep farming tradition, wool in Scotland is often regarded as an afterthought. While nations like Norway have found innovative ways to embrace and celebrate their wool, Scotland, with its abundance of sheep, appears to undervalue this natural resource. From local crofters burning their wool to the absence of iconic woolly hats in popular culture, the question arises: why has Scotland’s wool industry fallen into decline?
The Shetland Wool Dilemma
The lack of woolly hats in the BBC’s “Shetland” series is just the beginning of this ongoing controversy. Tom Morton’s critique about the absence of knitted headgear in the show touches a nerve because it represents a broader issue. The cultural heritage of wool, especially Shetland wool, is immense, with the island’s Fair Isle pattern world-renowned for its intricate design. Yet, even in this wool-rich region, there is a notable disconnect between the wealth of wool produced and its economic worth.
Actor Ashley Jensen’s complaints about being cold on set highlight another irony. In a place known for its wool, warmth could be easily achieved with locally produced knitted garments. Instead, wool’s importance is overlooked, and in some cases, the natural material is being discarded as waste.
Wool’s Low Market Value in Scotland
In stark contrast to Norway, where the wool industry is heavily subsidized and celebrated as part of the national identity, Scotland struggles with an undervalued wool sector. Many crofters report either burning or burying their fleeces due to the low price they fetch from the British Wool marketing system. With a meager 50p paid for each fleece—while it costs up to £2.50 to shear a sheep—the economics simply don’t add up for most farmers. Some, like Michael Foxley in Fort William, have resorted to using wool in practical ways, such as for pathing or protecting saplings, due to the lack of alternative outlets for their produce.
The Norwegian Model: A Cultural and Economic Success
Norway offers a striking contrast. There, wool is a part of national pride, and the Norwegian government heavily subsidizes wool production. Local chapters of the Norwegian Association of Sheep and Goat Farmers process wool for their members, and visitors are encouraged to learn about wool’s journey from farm to fashion. The nation’s embrace of wool has led to a thriving market for everything from Viking wool heritage trails to high-end contemporary wool products, such as the £1,500 Norwegian Wool coat featured in Succession. These efforts create both cultural appreciation and economic sustainability for local farmers.
Scotland’s Missed Opportunity: Branding and Storytelling
Part of the problem in Scotland may be the lack of a cohesive, identifiable brand for Scottish wool. Unlike Norwegian wool, which has been expertly marketed and associated with quality, Scottish wool often lacks distinction in the global market. The wool is primarily sold through British Wool, which focuses on processing and auctioning wool for low-value purposes like carpets. This one-dimensional approach fails to capitalize on the many versatile uses of wool, from clothing to insulation.
There is, however, hope in certain pockets of Scotland. Shetland, with its distinct wool products like Fair Isle knitwear, remains a beacon of wool pride. Shetland Wool Week celebrates the craft and artistry behind wool, highlighting its potential for economic growth and cultural significance. The event, which includes the release of a yearly hat pattern, brings together knitters from around the world to honor and create with Shetland wool. If other parts of Scotland could embrace such initiatives and promote wool’s sustainable qualities, they could potentially revive the wool market.
The Decline of Craftsmanship and Its Societal Impact
Knitting, once a common skill passed down through generations, was integral to Scottish life. The craft not only served a practical purpose but also had cognitive and psychological benefits. Recent studies show that knitting can reduce anxiety, improve mental focus, and even prevent cognitive decline. In an era dominated by mass-produced synthetic fabrics, the value of wool has diminished, and with it, a culture of craftsmanship that connected people to their environment and heritage.
A Growing Movement: Reclaiming Wool’s Value
Despite the challenges, there are individuals and small enterprises working to bring wool back into the spotlight. The Falkland Blanket, for instance, is one such initiative that aims to preserve Scotland’s wool heritage while providing high-quality products for modern consumers. Furthermore, crofters in places like Fair Isle continue to send their wool to small spinning mills, such as Jamieson’s of Shetland, where it is spun into skeins and sold as part of the local economy.
In the broader context, promoting wool as a natural, sustainable alternative to synthetic materials could resonate with today’s environmentally conscious consumers. Wool, being biodegradable, fire-resistant, and breathable, holds immense potential as a green alternative to plastics and petrochemical-based products. By telling the story of wool—from its origins in the Scottish Highlands to its potential as a high-end, eco-friendly material—Scotland could not only boost its wool industry but also take a step toward more sustainable practices across the fashion and building sectors.
A Call for Revaluation
Scotland’s wool industry, once a pillar of its rural economy, has fallen on hard times. Yet, there is still hope for a revival. If Scotland were to embrace its wool heritage with the same enthusiasm seen in Norway and Shetland, there could be a bright future for the industry. By fostering local craft, promoting the environmental benefits of wool, and investing in branding, Scotland could turn its wool from an overlooked byproduct into a national treasure once again.
