Calls are growing for the return of subsidised civic restaurants to tackle food insecurity and give Scots access to a hot meal for just a few pounds — just like their grandparents did.
Cheap, Filling Meals That Fed a Nation
You’d be forgiven for thinking taxpayer-backed public diners were just wartime nostalgia. But they were once a staple across the UK.
Before, during, and after both world wars, around 2,000 civic restaurants operated across Britain, nearly 100 of them in Scotland. Aberdeen’s Castle Restaurant alone served 4,000 customers in its first month back in 1941.
People swapped cold sandwiches for a hot three-course “shilling meal” that kept them going through long shifts in factories, shops and offices.
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It was a simple idea: good food, low price, open to all.
Nourish Scotland: Bring Back Civic Eateries
Fast forward to today and the idea is making a comeback. Food justice group Nourish Scotland wants to revive publicly funded diners to help families battered by the cost of living crisis.
The proposal? State-backed diners serving fresh, nutritious meals for £3 to £5 a plate.
It’s not just about food. Campaigners say these places could become social hubs too — places to chat, share a table, and feel part of something bigger.
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With a new trial set to launch in Dundee, the question now is: could this old-school idea solve a very modern problem?
Lessons From the Past
So, did the original civic restaurants work? History says yes.
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They tackled food shortages and rationing during wartime.
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They provided decent, affordable meals for workers.
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They helped keep the nation fed when times were tight.
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And people actually used them. British Pathe reels show packed canteens in the 1940s — workers in tweed caps tucking into hearty stews and pies, all paid for with small change.
Some say that sense of dignity — good food, shared space — is exactly what’s missing today.
A New Model for a New Crisis
The idea isn’t without its critics.
Some worry civic diners would undercut local cafés and small businesses already struggling to stay afloat. Others question whether the government can stomach another big spending commitment right now.
But Nourish Scotland argues that done right, it could strengthen local food chains instead of harming them. The group suggests civic restaurants could source ingredients from local farmers, bakers and fishmongers — keeping cash circulating in the community.
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Think of it as a safety net and an economic boost rolled into one.
Dundee Takes the First Bite
A pilot project is already taking shape in Dundee. Backed by funding, the trial aims to see if a modern civic restaurant can still hit the sweet spot: cheap, healthy, community-minded.
Morag Kinniburgh, reporting for BBC Scotland News, says the idea has sparked real debate at public suppers held across the country.
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Could it spread further? If the Dundee test goes well, campaigners hope to see taxpayer-funded diners pop up in other Scottish towns and cities.
Looking Ahead: A Hot Dinner, Some Company, and a Fair Price
Times may have changed since the days of “shilling meals”, but the hunger for affordable food hasn’t gone away.
A simple meal eaten side-by-side with strangers — there’s something comforting, almost radical about that idea in an age of food banks and fast-food takeaways.
A glance back at the numbers shows why this resonates:
| Year | UK Civic Restaurants | Scottish Locations | Average Cost (then) | Equivalent Today |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1941 | ~2,000 | ~100 | 1 shilling | £3-£5 |
| 2025 | Trial underway | Dundee first | £3-£5 | £3-£5 |
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In the end, it’s not just about cheap grub — it’s about dignity, community, and the right to a decent plate of food when the weekly shop is getting tougher for so many.
