Greg Boswell kicked off the 2025 Scottish winter climbing season with two bold new mixed routes on the tough Shadow Buttress at Lochnagar in Scotland. Teaming up with Hamish Frost and Dave Cowan, he tackled pristine early season conditions in November to claim these first ascents and push the limits of the sport.
Early Season Wins on Shadow Buttress
Boswell wasted no time this winter. Just days into the season, he and his partners eyed the imposing Shadow Buttress, a spot known for its steep challenges and history of hard lines. This crag gained fame in 2023 when Boswell and Jamie Skelton opened Bring da Ruckus, one of Scotland’s toughest mixed climbs. Now, with fresh snow and ice forming just right, Boswell saw a chance to add more quality routes.
The duo of Boswell and Frost went first. They started a direct line that links into The Hooded Groove for two pitches, then powered up the nose of the upper buttress. Parallel to the classic Shadow Buttress Direct, the climb features steep moves through amazing terrain. As they neared the top, a sudden storm hit, turning the finish into a real test of grit. Getting down proved just as tough in the wild weather.
Breaking Down Shadow Buttress A Superdirect
This new route stands out as a super direct variation on the buttress. Boswell described it as a line full of adventure, blending technical mixed climbing with the raw exposure of Scottish winters. The ascent happened under clear skies at first, but the incoming storm added drama that climbers love to talk about.
Frost, a solid partner in these efforts, helped navigate the tricky sections. Their climb avoids easier paths and goes straight for the heart of the rock. Early reports highlight the quality of the rock and ice hooks, making it a must try for skilled teams once conditions stabilize.
To give a quick overview of key features, here is a table summarizing the route:
| Route Name | Partners | Pitches | Key Features | Conditions Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shadow Buttress A Superdirect | Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost | 3+ | Direct start to The Hooded Groove, steep upper nose | Early season ice, storm at top |
Tackling Shadowboxin with Dave Cowan
A few days after the first climb, Boswell linked up with Dave Cowan for another gem. Shadowboxin follows a line up the left side of the steep wall that holds Bring da Ruckus. It finishes on the clean headwall above, offering a mix of power and precision.
Boswell had this route in mind for seasons. The early freeze provided the perfect window, with solid ice and minimal snow buildup. Cowan’s support made the push possible, as they battled the inherent difficulties of the wall. Boswell later shared that it lived up to the hype, delivering top notch climbing from start to finish.
The route demands strong mixed skills, from hooking on thin ice to pulling through overhangs. Climbers in the know see it as a natural extension of the buttress’s reputation for pushing boundaries.
Boswell’s Take on Grades and Adventure
Boswell keeps things real about these ascents. He chose not to assign grades yet, saying the terrain speaks for itself. In his view, folks get too caught up in numbers, and that takes away from the pure adventure of winter climbing.
This mindset fits his long career. At 34, Boswell has a track record of bold firsts across Scotland and beyond. He stresses the skills needed, like solid axe work and route finding in poor visibility.
Here are some highlights from Boswell’s recent Scottish winter feats:
- Bring da Ruckus in 2023: Set a new high for difficulty on the same buttress.
- Banana Wall repeat in 2015: Proved his early prowess in the Cairngorms.
- Multiple hard repeats: Tackled classics like The Hurting and Anubis.
Boost to Scottish Winter Climbing Scene
These new lines come at a great time for the community. With climate shifts making conditions unpredictable, early season hits like this inspire climbers to get out when the mountains cooperate. Lochnagar remains a hotspot, drawing experts from across the UK and Europe.
The ascents tie into broader trends. More climbers seek quality mixed routes amid changing weather patterns. Boswell’s work not only adds to the guidebooks but also sparks talks on preserving the adventure spirit. Recent events, like strong winds delaying other Cairngorms trips earlier this year, show why these breakthroughs matter.
Fans of Scottish winter climbing will watch closely as more teams test these routes. The combo of technical challenge and wild setting keeps the scene alive and evolving.
What do you think of these new Lochnagar climbs? Share your thoughts in the comments below and spread the word on social media to connect with fellow adventurers.
