Leslie Jamison reflects on an unforgettable trip to the Isle of Jura in the Hebrides, where she and her daughter ventured to connect with their Scottish heritage. The adventure, which included a luxurious stay at Glenapp Castle followed by days of exploration on remote islands, brought the pair face-to-face with the rugged beauty and history of Scotland.
Waking Up in the Wild
At the break of dawn, far from civilization, the sounds of nature were the only things to break the silence. The rain drummed against their tent on the Isle of Jura, wind howled between the ropes, and the waves crashed just below. Leslie’s daughter, wrapped in layers of blankets, remained peacefully asleep as Leslie gazed out at the shimmering sea. It was a stark reminder of the vastness and power of nature, a moment that felt like being on the edge of the world — a thin place where the boundaries between the tangible and the sublime blur.
George Orwell, who spent time on Jura nearly 75 years ago, wrote Nineteen Eighty-Four in the isolation of this very island. His choice to retreat to Jura was an attempt to escape the chaos of the world, much like Leslie and her daughter sought to do. Orwell described the island as “un-get-at-able,” and for Leslie, the trip was a way to explore not only her heritage but also the emotional resonance of that solitude.
The Hebridean Sea Safari
Leslie and her daughter were part of the Hebridean Sea Safari, a journey that combined luxury and adventure. Their stay at Glenapp Castle in South Ayrshire included indulgent touches, such as a canopy bed, a man in a kilt performing the haggis ceremony, and fresh vegetables from the castle’s gardens. This lavish experience contrasted sharply with the ruggedness of their later adventure on the islands.
From Glenapp, they traveled by boat to remote Hebridean islands, where they encountered seals, cormorants, red deer, and wild goats — a natural wonderland. The contrast between the comfort of Glenapp Castle and the untamed beauty of the Hebrides was striking. It was on these islands that Leslie hoped to connect with the history of her ancestors, who had lived a far more humble life in the Scottish countryside.
Exploring Heritage
Leslie’s Scottish roots stretch back to four clans: MacDonald, Cumming, Duncan, and Leslie. Growing up, her family’s history was marked by hardship — tales of agricultural poverty, brutal winters, and personal tragedies. Her great-great-grandfather, struggling with the weight of this legacy, took his own life one winter. And her great-great-grandmother, left for dead and abandoned in a woodshed, was miraculously saved by her cries in the night. The fact that Leslie and her daughter were able to visit the land of their ancestors felt like a significant, almost mystical act of reclamation.
Despite her family’s deep connection to the land, Leslie wasn’t sure if she had a claim to Scotland. She didn’t seek to own it; rather, she wanted to feel it, to experience the country in its raw and unpolished form. This trip was about creating memories — to counterbalance the romanticized or fictional images of Scotland with the visceral, sensory experiences of rain, fire, and churning seas.
A Daughter’s Connection to the Past
Leslie’s daughter, though young, had developed a fascination with their Scottish heritage. She had created a “heritage” poster board for school, featuring Highland cattle, the caber toss, and even the character of Merida from Disney’s Brave. While these images represented a more modern and idealized view of Scotland, Leslie hoped that their trip would offer a deeper, more authentic connection — one shaped by the real sights, sounds, and textures of the land.
This journey wasn’t just about discovering Scotland’s landscape but also about building a connection with its past — a shared experience that would bring Leslie and her daughter closer to the meaning of their heritage. For Leslie, the true significance lay in feeling a sense of awe and appreciation for the country’s history and beauty, and in the memories they created together.
